As we got off the boat at the edge of Lake Beringo, our boda bodas, and their drivers were waiting for us. Climbing onto the Laikipia Plateau, the sparkling lake unfolded behind us. The depression in the earth that was the Rift Valley seemed so ancient and rugged and raw.

 

Lunch of mbuzi (goat) stew and chapatis in Tangle Bay, and then onward. The topography changed, the bush thickened, and after riding along the sun-burnt, dusty road for quite a way, we followed a track to the north. We zoomed past wandering herds of cattle and goats, past a trough with a well that brought much sought-after water from the depths of the earth, past little clusters of mud houses, until finally the road ended.

 

From here, we had to walk. With the guidance of a young boy who abandoned his small herd of goats, the six of us followed him over the rocky terrain, dodging thorn trees, as we tried to keep up. He led us to an amazing view of an enormous waterfall, flowing down the tiger-striped earth and disappearing into a stream hidden by thick bush. A collective gasp sounded, and then a low whistle of appreciation.

 

“Did we want to see more?” the little boy asked. Of course. And with a look that said, ‘follow me’ he zipped off. Soon the bush ended and the breathtaking canyons of Amaiya spread out before us. Universal amazement left us speechless. We sat and admired the landscape – what a prize for reaching our destination. There aren’t words to do Amaiya justice, I can only say that it is truly the most beautiful natural wonder of the world that I have ever seen – and you’ll just have to see it for yourself.